This Dutch bergère straw hat would have been worn by a rich merchants wife in Middelburg, Zeeland in the 18th century. Later this type of hat was adopted by wealthy farmer's wives as part of their Sunday going to town best dress. This always confuses the collectors of traditional/regional dress in Holland, that items they consider unique to their area were in fact originally items of fashion of the towns folk. The straw hat would have come from Leghorn, Italy and the silk brocade and ribbons from France, and then assembled in Holland. It appears that this bergére was never finished, but luckily has all the pieces. Bergére means shepherdess. Leghorn straw was grown in Livorno, near Genoa.
The large flat very finely plaited Leghorn straw with a shallow crown, the underside rim edged with a mid-green bias tape, crudely stitched with linen thread, the crown applied with pasted linen gauze (for strengethening).
17 1/4; 44 cm diameter.
Two small fabric circles for the crown, one of madder block printed French cotton, the other French brocade in chocolate brown with pale green and silver flowers and leaves.
4 1/2 in; 12 cm diameter.
A large circle of French roller printed magenta cotton with ribbons and flowers, the blue hand painted, made up of 8 pieces.
17 1/4 in; 44 cm diameter.
Two silk brocade ribbons of sea green with ivory flowers laying on fine flattened gold tinsel, picot edging.
25 1/2 and 24 in x 2 in; 66 and 64 cm x 5 cm.
There are also a group of five small pieces of the French cotton.
The hat is in very very good condition apart from a couple of pin head dark marks. The small crimson circle in very good condtion. The brocade has a patchy brown background. The large crimson circle is in good condition. There are also a small group of this fabric. One of the brocade ribbon ties is a little bit worn at the edge.
Fashion. Kyoto Costume Institute p 61
Price: on request
Ref N°: 1385
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