Apart from the glorious colour of this gown, it is the fabric which is so unusual and rare. The rustling silk taffeta has been woven with self pattern (damask) but then embroidered with silver in two techniques, flat and rolled. I think the silk is Spitalfields. Have you heard of this technique before? This gown, petticoat and stomacher have been altered, possibly in the 20th century and there are some largish tacking stitches. Provenance available to the buyer.
The pinky mauve silk taffeta woven with self coloured damask flower sprays, lily of the valley and others species whose flowers are embroidered with silver strips and silver wrapped silk couching, smaller flower buds scattered throughout.
The bodice front pointed, elbow length double frilled sleeves or furbellows, the back with square inset neck panel from which wide pleats fall to the trained hem, the skirt with wide pleating and side pocket slits.
The silk 19 1/2; 50 cm wide. Four full widths to the gown plus shaped pieces to the edges.
Back neck to hem 62 in;1.58 m
Front shoulder to hem 53 1.34 m
The petticoat made of three widths selvedge to selvedge, applied to a linen tape.
Waist to hem 38 in; 97 cm.
The stomacher of triangular shape with rounded lower end, applied with 18th century silver lace. 10 x 9 in; 26 x 23 cm wide.
This gown has been altered but it is still amazingly beautiful. The outside pinky/mauve shade has very evenly changed colour, because the inside in slightly darker. This does not detract at all and once on a mannequin, would not show. I think the 18th century silver lace trim has been added. You can tell from the large stitches inside the gown! Or more likely it was original to the gown but has been re applied. I think there were robings to each side of the front? The back is correct for a sack back and the sleeves and furbellows seem fine. The cuffs have been re stitched at a later date and have some large stitches. A little damage under the arms, which could be improved.
The petticoat linen waist band is later. This could be improved. Basically it needs to be re made. There is a little 1 1/4 in; 3 cm slit to centre front below waistband. A very small hole a little further down.
The stomacher has been made up from another part of the original gown. Three small embroidered loops to the right hand side, 2 cm in from edge, are not usually seen on stomachers, which would have been pinned to the gown.
Ask for photos of the inside.
Costume in Detail Nancy Bradfield p 39.
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