Rare, unusual and interesting antique costumes and textiles; for museums and collectors looking for that extra special piece, for new and established collectors and for those with a modest budget who want to adorn their person or home.

RARE Watermen's Shirt & Trousers
1827

I am selling the last two pieces of very rare working men's clothing for Lower Rank Boat Crew. Despite some reseach (please talk to me about this and I can send all my findings) I have not found out the occasion when these outfits were worn. My feeling is they were worn for a pageant. Clearly the wearers ended up in the Thames because the clothing is very muddy. Let's hope they did not get dystentry! Bought from the Watermen & Lightermen's Company. I have already sold three outfits to major museums.



As you will see this shirt is in original muddy condition. The trousers I have soaked, just in water, and a lot of the mud has lifted. Various states of staining, but all basically quite sound. 


Cataloguing

Shirt: Of roller printed blue and white cotton, typical T shape with squarish deep collar with two small mother of pearl buttons, the back slightly curved, the front opening with a further three mother of pearl buttons and buttonholes, above tight gathering,  gathered dropped shoulders with underarm insets (for movement), the deep cuffs with a  Dorset buton and a  mother of pearl button to the other cuff, lower side slits with inset panel, the back slightly longer than the front, all hand sewn.



Trousers: In blue and white roller printed cotton, the deep central front waistband with six buttons, three metal, two bone and one self covered, a small coin pocket on the right of the trousers, a self covered button below the waistband, the fall front with three buttonholes, two side flap pockets , one with self covered button, the other bone, the back waistband with a V and with two bone buttons, above inserted strengthening panels, wide legs, lined throughout with white cotton.


Condition

Shirt:  As you will see it is very muddy, but feel confident that with gentle soaking the Thames mud can be removed.  The collar is frayed to the top edge. The back collar has a small repair and hole, and on the shirt below are is a 2 cm horizontal slit plus three other much smaller.  The left lower side slit has come undone, but could easily be reinstated with a few stitches. The lower back part of the shirt is remarkably clean, so perhaps the dirt has occured from carrying items.



Trousers: Overall with light markings. The left hand knee area and crutch are quite stained. A small tear and a patched hole 1 1/2 x 2 cm dia in the knee area. The right hand leg has a small flapped hole 2 cm. The back waist V is damaged but could be carefully supported and re-instated. The hems have been turned up. Do ask for more photos.



 


Comments

View of Bankside (1816-25) attributed to Thomas Miles Richardson (1784 - 1848). Museum of London 95.185. The man on the left hand side has a striped shirt, similar to ours.



Arrival at Brandenburg House of the Watermen etc with an address to the queen on 3rd October 1820. The waterman in the boat is wearing blue and white striped trousers.



The Times reported on this event, which happened on Tuesday 3 October 1820: ‘The barge which contained the deputation charged with the Address of the Watermen- and Lightermen was distinguished by the large and glowing ensign that she bore, the sailor-like and orderly appearance of the crew, and the respectability of the passengers.’ The man in the boat has blue and whtie striped trousers. My thanks to Beatrice Behlen, Curator London Museum for bringing this to my notice.


Price: on request

Ref N°: C & B